ev charging at home safety

What “Mode 2” actually isMode 2 is the portable charger that comes with many EVs: one end goes to a household outlet, the other to your car. It draws continuous current for hours—typically 8–16 A at ~230 V (about 1.8–3.7 kW). That “continuous for hours” part is the mismatch with many household accessories.     Why power strips get hot and fail Long, continuous load on parts designed for short burstsMost power strips and cheap extension leads are rated 10 A. They’re fine for a kettle for a few minutes—but not for a 6–10-hour continuous load. Even at 10 A, the strip’s internal bus bars and contacts keep heating.     1. Contact resistance = heatLoose sockets, tired springs, oxidation, dust, or a plug not fully seated all raise contact resistance. Power loss on those tiny points converts directly to heat. Heat carbonizes the plastic, springs get weaker, resistance rises again… a vicious cycle.   2. Thin conductors and weak jointsBudget strips use thin copper and riveted joints. Add a long lead with 0.75–1.0 mm² conductors and you get voltage drop and extra heating along the cable run.   3. Daisy-chaining adaptersUniversal adapters, travel plugs, multi-layer converters—all add more contacts and more heat points. One weak link is enough to char the stack.   4. Poor heat dissipationCoiled or bundled cable acts like an insulator. Put that on a carpet or behind curtains in summer and the temperature climbs.   5. Shared loadsIf that same strip also feeds a heater, microwave, or PC, the total current can exceed what the strip and the wall outlet can safely carry.   6. Aging or undersized house wiringOld circuits on small breakers, loose terminal screws, weak wall sockets, or bad earthing can start heating inside the wall—out of sight.   7. Micro-arcs from movementA plug that wiggles even slightly under load will arc. Each arc pits the metal, raising resistance and heat the next minute.     Numbers that make it real• 10 A × 230 V ≈ 2.3 kW, for hours.• 16 A × 230 V ≈ 3.7 kW, for hours. A typical “10 A/250 V” power strip was never intended to carry that kind of continuous power for an entire night.     How to charge safely at home (practical checklist)• Don’t use a power strip. Plug the Mode 2 charger directly into a wall outlet.• Prefer a dedicated circuit. 16–20 A breaker, 30 mA RCD/RCBO, copper wiring ≥ 2.5 mm², properly tightened terminals.• Use a quality outlet. Full-depth, firm grip, heat-resistant housing. Replace old or loose sockets.• Limit current when in doubt. If your portable charger lets you choose 8/10/13/16 A, start low (8–10 A) on older wiring or hot days.• No adapters or daisy chains. Avoid travel converters or “universal” sockets; every extra contact is a heat spot.• Lay the cable out straight. Don’t coil it. Keep it off carpets, bedding, or piles of clothes.• Do a warm-check after 30–60 minutes. The plug and outlet should feel only mildly warm. If it’s hot to the touch or smells “toasty,” stop and inspect.• Keep the area ventilated and dry. Moisture and dust increase tracking and arcing risks.• Consider a wallbox (Mode 3). A fixed EVSE with the correct breaker, RCD, and wiring is inherently safer and usually faster.     Quick “symptom → meaning → action” guide What you notice What it likely means What to do next Plug/outlet too hot to touch High contact resistance or overload Stop charging, let it cool, replace outlet, reduce current Brown/yellow plastic, scorch marks Past overheating, carbonization Replace outlet and plug; check wiring torque Crackling/popping sounds Micro-arcing at loose contacts Stop immediately; repair/replace hardware Charger trips RCD intermittently Leakage or dampness; wiring issue Dry the area, inspect cable, have an electrician test Voltage drops (lights dim) Long run, thin cable, loose joints Shorten the run, upsize wiring, tighten terminals Cable feels hot while coiled Self-heating with poor cooling Uncoil fully and elevate off insulating surfaces     FAQIs a 10 A power strip “OK if it’s within rating”?Not for EVs. That rating assumes intermittent household use, not many hours at the edge. Continuous duty cooks weak links inside strips.   If I install a 16 A outlet, is it guaranteed safe?Only if the entire chain is right: correct breaker and RCD, proper wire gauge, tight terminations, quality outlet, and sensible ambient temperatures.   What current should I set on my portable charger?Use the lowest that still meets your schedule on older circuits (8–10 A). If you know you have a dedicated 16–20 A circuit with good wiring and a robust outlet, 13–16 A can be appropriate.   Can I use a heavy-duty extension lead?If you must, choose a single, short, heavy-duty lead with ≥ 1.5–2.5 mm² conductors, fully uncoiled, with a snug, weather-rated connector. Even then, a direct wall outlet is better.   Why does a plug sometimes smell even when it looks fine?Heat can bake plasticizers and dust before you see discoloration. Smell is an early warning—stop and investigate.   What’s the role of the RCD/RCBO?A 30 mA device trips on leakage to protect people from shock. It doesn’t prevent overheating from poor contacts—that’s why mechanical quality and proper wiring still matter.   When should I move to a wallbox?If you charge most nights, need higher currents, or your house wiring is older. The cost buys you dedicated protection, better connectors, and less stress on outlets.     A simple decision path• You charge occasionally, short sessions, new wiring: Mode 2 to a quality wall outlet can be acceptable—avoid strips, keep current low, and monitor temperature.• You charge often or overnight, or wiring is older: install a proper wallbox on a dedicated circuit.• Anything feels hot, smells odd, or trips repeatedly: stop, fix the root cause, then resume.   EVs are continuous loads. Power strips aren’t built for that. Use a direct wall outlet on a solid circuit, keep connections clean and firm, limit current when uncertain, and move to a dedicated wallbox if charging becomes routine.